Rubies and Purls

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Finished winding!

Well, today's a very good day. Jhoneil's in town, very yay, as he's such a good friend online, and he's way sweet. Bonus, he's in a giving mood so he sprang for a box of Marie's watercolours. They're these good watercolours from China. I like them cuz I can make vibrant washes and use them kind of opaque, but they only cost like $7.00 a set!

Anyhoo, on track and to the point. I just finished winding that 4oz of JaggerSpun SuperLamb. Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

I was aiming to wind a center pull ball, but there's just so much of it. It's more like a pull-skein, but will unwind from the outside as I've been assured that's the best way to prevent tangles.

I'm just hoping I didn't put a whole bunch of tangles in while winding.

Oooh, good news! My order of Aqua Moon coloured(added the u as it's how it's spelled in the UK) lace weight cashmere/merino yarn was processed yesterday, or maybe was the day before? All I know is I got the email yesterday :D. Looks like I'll be getting the free sample pack too, even though I do think that was my error in reading, like a bizarre lack of comprehension. Strange since I normally have excellent reading comprehension.

Even if he just puts in the tiny skeins and not the mini, that's cool. If no samples come, I'll be mildly dissapointed, but will understand :D.

Turns out the ColourMart laceweight has more yardage per ounce than the SuperLamb and the SuperLamb's touted as being cobweb weight. Hmmmm. I just bought a set of Addi in 0000 size. I'm working at relaxing my tension while knitting. My shoulder's been giving me fits, with numbness down my arm. I think relaxing my tension will make for even knitting and be good for my shoulder.

I read that tiny needles with relaxed tension is equal to using size 2-3 with a tighter tension. At any rate it's impressive, "look what I knit on 0000 needles!" hehehe.






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Monday, November 06, 2006

It's He-e-re!

It just arrived! My lovely 4oz of JaggerSpin Super Lamb! I'm all giddy. 4 whole ounces of cobweb weight yarn!

Now I see what someone in the Knitter's Review forums was talking about, at least after their cobweb weight from ColourMart UK arrived. Well now, first off it's nice it's really nice. My mom felt the unknit skein and said it felt rough. Um, nope, not really. A cursory neck, ear, inner-elbow, cuddle, reveals it to be quite soft.

So why does she think it's rough? Prolly cuz the first natural yarn I let her cuddle was some Misti Alpaca Lace. At any rate this stuff is actually quite soft and about 1/2 the thickness of the misti lace. I also think it has to do with there being so many strands of it, they almost look like the yarn for crewel embroidery. Heck, they might be the same yarn I don't know.


It's shiny, and all those strands have their own texture. Mind you it's one continuous strand wound into a skein. Oh dear, I forgot to have it wound, no matter, I'll break out ye olde nostie, a.k.a. a section of bamboo, and wind up a nice center pull myself. Whoa baby, that's gonna take some effort. Something like 1400 yards of the stuff. I forget the calculations. Will scan a pic asap.

I really should buy one of those crank style ball winders. Oh well. BBL, after I get this stuff wound and knit up a motif/swatch of the stuff. I think even if I don't quite have enough I can get some more(different color, maybe a nice dark green, mmmmm) from Imagiknit. Still, a single motif will make it so I can calculate how much I need for a single shawl. Lots and lots of yarn overs, and a nice loose vibe to the motif should mean it's enough for a small shawl, but I had better triple check.







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Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Oooh! Working on a field of daisies

That's just what I'm calling it. It's a shawl of daisies and swirls. Hoping it turns out okay, but I'm winging it, kinda freeform. First time out the gate should be comfy, if not ultra-cute.

Ordered some of that fine merino lamb cobweb yarn from Jaggerspun today. Well, actually it's by JaggerSpun, I ordered it from Bo Peep's. I'm such a pain in the a$$ I double checked to make sure "thistle" is a muted purple. I'm experimenting with a celtic knot inspired design. It's tricky, but I think I can figure it out b4 the yarn gets here.

The shawl I'm working on now is out of Madil Kid Seta. It's a totally awesomely soft yarn, all fuzzy-wuzzy. Of course, what else would u expect from mohair?

ColourMart UK cashmere is next on the list, well, their silk-cashmere blend, love how soft and strong it sounds, not to mention luxurious.







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Oooh! Working on a field of daisies

That's just what I'm calling it. It's a shawl of daisies and swirls. Hoping it turns out okay, but I'm winging it, kinda freeform. First time out the gate should be comfy, if not ultra-cute.

Ordered some of that fine merino lamb cobweb yarn from Jaggerspun today. Well, actually it's by JaggerSpun, I ordered it from Bo Peep's. I'm such a pain in the a$$ I double checked to make sure "thistle" is a muted purple. I'm experimenting with a celtic knot inspired design. It's tricky, but I think I can figure it out b4 the yarn gets here.

The shawl I'm working on now is out of Madil Kid Seta. It's a totally awesomely soft yarn, all fuzzy-wuzzy. Of course, what else would u expect from mohair?

ColourMart UK cashmere is next on the list, well, their silk-cashmere blend, love how soft and strong it sounds, not to mention luxurious.







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Friday, August 04, 2006

Got some new yarn!

Well I did it. I finally broke down and purchased honest to goodness sock yarn. I have to say both sock and lace yarns offer more knitting pleasure for your knitting dollar. I also have to say that if socks or lace scare you; don't let them!

Knitting socks is like sculpting with yarn. Knitting lace is like drawing with yarn. Both are super-fun, and offer hours of happiness. Since sock and lace yarn tend to be of much nicer fibers than your average Drugstore, or variety store carry in their yarn sections.

For socks start with something ultra-simple like the Universal Sock Pattern. If you have experience knitting lace, or intarsia, you can adapt that pattern very easily to fit your fave patterns by changing the number of CO stitches, or altering the lace. Easy-peasy.

Of course lace is by far the easiest of all. Folks will tell ya to print or buy knitting graph paper. I have to say that I have no problem imagining what stitches will look like while using plain old graph paper, and since it's available in tablets and filler paper style, it's my personal fave. Basically it's connect the dots. After you practice with one of the easy free lace patterns, it's easy enough to adapt said pattern or create your own. Just think of it as connect the dots with YO replacing the dots. The sample knitting for my silk yarn is adapted from the fishtail lace pattern. If folks need a little extra lace help, just leave comments. I'll help as much as I can.

Back to my new yarn. 100 gram ball of Regia Jubillee colors in Antigua. It's just lovely. Was thinking I'd cut out the fair isle bits. But that would just mean an absolute ton of russian joins. Yuck. Talk about a chore. So now I'm thinking I'll just knit up Potamus. It's a fave in the sock knitting forums, and now that I have proper yarn, I just have to give it a try. If I don't like the white fair isle stripes, I'll make a dilute dye solution for a pastel flash wherever there's white. Will use teal, and will just make the blues bluer, while muting the white :).

Today was my second time eyeing and feeling up the gr8 big skeins of merino fingerring weight. They're less than 25 bucks each for over 1,000 yards. Have a feeling I'll break down my next visit to the yarn shop :).








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Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Requesting Donations For A Good Spinning Wheel

Hi,

It's been awhile. Here's a sample of the silk yarn I spun


  

  
I knit a sample of it. It's a very small ball, and I spun it on my homemade spinning wheel, cranking by hand. Sadly the wheel took a big fall, and I'm having a ton of difficulty repairing it.

There's actually quite a bit of yardage in that one small ball(I lost count), but it's definitely fingering weight, since it comes in at approximately 14wpi, that's wraps per inch, for those who don't know. I even made a bamboo nostie for center pull balls, and it works quite well indeed.

It occurs to me that if I had a good beginner's wheel, I could get a real feel for how my homemade/found parts wheel should really run. That's where donations come in.

If you knit, but haven't any interest in spinning, this might be just the proposition for you.

I'm posting a donations button at the end of this post and in the links section. There's an identical button at Spinning On A Dime.

I like knitting with fingering weight or lighter yarn. You get more bang for your buck. Lots more fun knitting, especially when it comes to socks and lace patterns, because you get lots more yardage for the weight. So here's the bargain. For any donation, you'll get a ball of yarn, or a hank of yarn with bamboo nostie + instructions for using it to wind a center pull ball. You'll receive the yarn at cost, and I'll throw in the nostie for free, because they're both easy and inexpensive to make.

It works like this; the ammount of money donated, will first go towards the purchase of a good quality beginner's spinning wheel. As soon as there's enough in the account to purchase the wheel, the donation drive ends. I'll remove the buttons, and notify everyone when the wheel arrives. Any excess in the account will go towards the purchase of fiber for spinning. Not just any fiber but good, quality, fiber. I'm talking silk, super wash wool, and probably alpaca as well. I have been able to find sources of high quality fiber at tremendous savings.

To save even more money, the silk cocoons will be hand processed into silk hankies by yours truly. The superwash wool is an assortment of colors, and from the photos it's a very fine quality wool. It costs less than $1 per ounce. So that's $2 for 2 ounces of superwash wool. I can sort the wool by colors, and easily blend primary colors into secondary colors. I just have to recomb some of it, but it's quality combed top. The alpaca that has me so interrested is $2 per ounce for blanket, and $1 per ounce for neck(and neck is touted as being very soft, so really once I research some more, maybe, just maybe I'll go for neck, and the savings will be enormous).

So what's with all the savings? I want to pass the savings on to the donors. A fair ammount of the money will be out of pocket, but as I said before, only the excess funds from the donation drive will go towards fiber. Example: if a wheel costs $225 - $275 and I get $250 in donations, then I'll have to foot the difference. However, if there is a serge in donations, and there's $25 or so over the ammount for a wheel, I'll put that $25 towards fiber).

Let me boil it down further. If someone is only capable of donating 50¢, I won't hold it against them. To the contrary, they will get at least 4 cocoons worth of hand dyed hand spun silk yarn(it depends on what source is available, one source is far less expensive than the other, you get more cocoons for the same ammount of money). 4 cocoons doesn't sound like much, but I can get 4-5 yards of roving from a single cocoon without trying, much more when I really concentrate on getting a nice, very thin, even strand of silk roving). So 50¢ yields enough yarn for an accent piece, a nice sampling of the yarn/fiber, and enough yarn to snuggle with. It's not enough for an entire garment obviously, but that's hardly the point right?

So here's how it works, and I need to adjust the 411 in the spinning blog; when you make a donation, you're offered the option of including comments. Please include your mailing adress and preferences in the donation comments; if you want the yarn, and I can't imagine why you wouldn't, the mailing adress is absolutely necessary.

Smaller donations will be easiest and quickest to fill, by my simply spinning silk. It's easy enough, if I pay $2 for 20 cocoons, then you get 4 cocoons worth of pure silk yarn, and stretched, hand dyed, and handspun by moi. For larger donations I have more wiggle room with options. 20 cocoons yeild over 2oz before processing, the silkworm is dried inside, and very light. So if you want pure silk yarn for a $5 donation, that's 50 cocoons(when they're $2.00 for 20, prices vary, but I will keep everyone informed as to actual cost). 50 cocoons before processing weighs in at over 5 ounces, and if you're curious, 2 ounces is approximately 50 grams of yarn. If you want a silk/superwash blend, I'll have to do the math, same for pure superwash. Still, I'll keep you up to date and fully informed.

I will spin the first bobbin(which eventually ends up being a ball of yarn) with undonated fiber. That is to say a small ammount of wool I already have, because I thought I could use it for my homemade wheel, before the accident). It's plenty of fiber for me to predraft, spin, and get a feel for the wheel. That way I won't have to get the hang of a new wheel with fiber intended for donors.

After the first bobbin(photographed and posted for posterity and so that you can get an idea of the fineness of the yarn I can spin) is spun, all spinning will be devoted to donors until each and every donor who wants yarn gets yarn. I have friends who don't knit and might make anonymous donations, in those instances I wouldn't be able to send yarn to people who don't want yarn. But if you fill in your mailing adress, you will get yarn.

So what's the catch? Time, it's that simple. I need time to collect donations(that's if anybody even donates in the first place), then I need time to receive the wheel and fiber, then I need time to spin the yarn, and time for it to arrive to you safely. This is based on kindness and trust. If you can find it in your heart to trust me, you can get handspun yarn at cost. Considering handspun yarn goes for $25 and up in yarn shops, this is a tremendous savings, even if it does take longer to receive your yarn than it does when you order something to be fedexed to you.

It's kind of an adopt a spinster program. When spinners adopt a sheep for a year(for a whole lot of $, but well spent I assure you), they get letters from their sheep, and the fleece in the spring. When you adopt a spinster, you get regular updates of the tally, a glowing thankyou in my blog, and handspun yarn. I get to keep the wheel, and everyone breaks even :).

If you're wondering what 4 mawatas worth of yarn can make, I'll even create a pattern. Something sweet, and cute, that you know means you helped me more than you'll ever know, but other people will just think is pretty. Oh, but what if guys help? I didn't think of that, I'll have to come up with something nice for the fellas to knit too. No problem:). I'm good at this stuff.

You get full 411 about the wheel, pics of it, and yarn. Technically I'm not really proposing donations, just loans, paid back in yarn :).

P.S. If you're into astrology, I can spin yarn in colors to match your sun sign/birth stone. If you have a favorite color, I can spin yarn in either a gradient of your fave color, or complimentary stripes of your fave color(remember green matches everything).

Is this really any zanier than trading a red paper clip for stuff till you eventually trade for a house? I think not :D









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Friday, July 07, 2006

Silk Stockings

Imagine:

If I can spin some silk to lace weight or finer(I want to get good enough to spin gossamer and froghair), I'll be able to use it with this Handknit Hose tutorial/information page to make my very own silk stockings.

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Tips for Fine Tuning Color When Dying with Food Color or Kool-Aid

While researching fiber dying on the cheap, I came across phrases like: "Garishly bright colors", "Colors too bright", "Kid's Colors"; and so on and so forth. It's a little disturbing to me, but only because I have a bit of an unfair advantage. I'm used to mixing paint colors for painting pictures. You can see a sampling of stuff I do at My Deviant Art Gallery.

I decided I should share the wealth, and not hog all this valuable information.

Here's the deal:

Dying with Kool-Aid is dying with food color, it's just powdered and mixed with malic or citric acid and stabilizers. That's terrific because you can make a super concentrated dye that won't spread out all over the place.

The point is, you can off-set or neutralize ultra-bright colors with drops of food color. I could link you to a color wheel and try to explain it to you. But it's all so simple to show with words.

Opposite colors neutralize each other. Generally opposite colors are complimentary colors, and they are any two colors that look the absolute best side by side. There's a reason why all the red and green at Christmas time look so terrific together. They're opposite/complimentary colors.

Everyone knows that yellow and blue make green, yellow and red make orange, blue and red make purple. That's it. Those are all your primary and secondary colors.

To neutralize a primary color you simply mix it with a drop or two of it's complimentary secondary color, or vice-versa. Here's a list:
  • Yellow and Purple

  • Green and Red

  • Blue and Orange


  • The list also works if you're completely stuck for how to make colors pop. Example, wide blue stripes with thin orange stripes(or reverse it). It works because the opposing colors compliment each other, and each makes the other pop!

    You can use pure clean colors for your stripes or combos, or you can mix them. By adding a drop of the opposite color at a time, and adjusting back and forth untill satisfied(remembering colors will be deeper before absorbing into the fiber), you can tone down the bright colors. A drop of red added to a large ammount of green mutes the green, and you wind up with a different shade(and experimentation will lead you to just the right shade of green). A drop of green added to red makes a kind of muted red, some call maron, others call it maroon. It's that deep brownish sort of red that's akin to oxblood.

    Also you can blend colors by mixing the individual colors of fiber, in varying ammounts. That's related to pointillism. George Seurat would probably have enjoy a pair of green socks that are actually made of individually dyed then blended, blue, yellow, and maybe a bit of red, fibers. One could also do this by making each ply the primary + secondary colors. I described this in an earlier post. One ply of each: red+blue+purple. When spun and knitted would make a purple optical illusion item.

    I hope this helps. If you need pics to explain further, leave a comment and let me know. I think I made it all pretty clear though :).

    Oooh before I forget; this would work with overdying as well. If a certain shade of red is giving you migraines, neutralize it with a weak wash of green; and so on and so forth. You would have to experiment to find exactly the colors you want, but experimenting's half the fun:).
     

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